In recent developments, the beauty industry has once again come under scrutiny for failing to cater adequately to women of color. Youthforia, previously criticized for their limited foundation range, released a new foundation shade, “600 Deep – Neutral,” which beauty guru Golloria compared to blackface paint. This incident has reignited discussions about racism in makeup brands, highlighting the need for a deeper look into the industry’s approach to inclusivity.
The Evolution of Makeup Brands Catering to Black People
The first makeup brand that catered specifically to women of color appeared with Fashion Fair Cosmetics in 1973. Subsequently, most makeup brands up fell short in truly addressing the diversity within this demographic. It wasn’t until Rihanna launched Fenty Beauty, with its groundbreaking 40 (now 50) shades of foundation, that the industry saw a paradigm shift. Fenty’s success stemmed not only from its inclusivity but also from its profound connection with black women, who felt recognized and valued beyond the realm of cosmetic products.
Embed from Getty ImagesGolloria’s Experience with Youthforia
TikTok influencer Golloria’s thorough examination of Youthforia’s “600 Deep” foundation shade shows the challenges faced by women of color in finding appropriate makeup products. In her viral video, Golloria begins by showcasing the foundation alongside actual black face paint, emphasizing the alarming similarity in color.
When we say that we want you guys to make shades for us, we don’t mean to go to the lab and ask for minstrel show black. What we mean is to take the browns that you have made, create undertones, and do what you need to do in the lab so it’s a darker shade of black...Not only in 2024 is this so disgusting and disrespectful, but this needs to be pulled off the shelves.”
In her review, Golloria not only points out the practical problems with the foundation but also shares how one can feel overlooked and wrongly portrayed in the beauty industry.
Addressing Criticism and Misinformation With Youthforia
Like clockwork, the folks who don’t understand racism or colorism, came to dismiss a black women experience. Critics argue that people shouldn’t use the foundation alone, but Golloria’s observations and the brand’s marketing directly challenge this claim.
This foundation lists only CI77499, which is black iron oxide, and that’s it—no other colorants. This pigment is just pure black, which isn’t typically used alone in foundation formulations due to its overpowering shade and inability to mimic natural skin tones.”
Furthermore, a chemist’s analysis confirms that the foundation’s formulation lacks the necessary undertones for it to be effective or respectful to darker skin tones. This scientific breakdown reinforces the concerns raised by critics like Golloria. It also highlights the technical negligence involved in the product’s development and how they see consumers of colour.
The Persistent Racism in Makeup Brands
Youthforia’s response to previous criticisms about their shade range has been less than satisfactory. Their attempt to introduce a “black” shade, which no real person could match, and their subsequent actions suggest a deep-seated insensitivity to the needs and experiences of black women. The beauty industry continues to embrace practices that many see as racist, despite years of feedback and the inclusive example set by brands like Fenty. It is evident that more than just adding shades is required; a genuine understanding and respect for the consumer’s needs are crucial. As consumers, it’s important to support brands that celebrate diversity authentically, not just those that tolerate it. Go where you are celebrated, not where you are tolerated, because brands that do not genuinely respect their customers will always be ignorant and disrespectful.
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